Sustainable Shopping Within Reach with Merl Kinzie

Business Owner & Designer Feature: Merl Kinzie | The Shudio

Hi, Merl! It’s been such a pleasure to get to know you and your amazing shop mavens over at THE SHUDIO. We would love to get to know you and how you came to found your shop! Can you start by telling us a little bit about yourself and how the Shudio came to be? 

The Shudio stands for Shop + Studio and actually began primarily a studio that housed my jewelry metalsmith workspace and my sister's film and photography studio that we would host workshops and pop up shops in. We loved the idea of creating a multi-functional space that was able to transform as necessary, however, our pop-up shops were successful enough that our customers weren't satisfied with only being open one weekend a month, and thus the full-time shop was born!

I had previous experience running a retail shop, and was excited to truly realize my vision for a solo store, but also wanted to keep the workshop aspect of the space alive as well as my jewelry studio space. I love the idea of creating a space that brings together folks from different walks of life that are all interested in leading a more sustainable, conscious consumerism life. We are so lucky that our second and current space only expands on that idea with more space for workshops and events!

You’re clearly coming from a creative background, with so many aspects coming together in this one shop! You mentioned also your work in jewelry making, with a studio in the back of your store. Can you share more about that aspect of your life and how that lead you to where you are now? 

Well, I was amazing at making beaded bracelets for my mom at age 7, so a natural progression into full-time jewelry maker just made sense.. ha. I began about 10 years ago by deconstructing vintage costume jewelry that I would find in my thrifting adventures and reimagined them in modern ways. I got such a great response on my first few collections that it inspired me to leave my full-time photography job, and pursue jewelry design in addition to vintage sourcing. Eventually, I transitioned to sourcing vintage deadstock and recycled metal designs which allows me to create limited edition collections and work with more stores on wholesale accounts.

When did you discover your place in sustainability? Was there a turning point or a-ha moment for you in your journey?

I will fully admit that, in college, I would make monthly day trips with a group of friends to a F21 about 2 hours away from the city I lived in to obtain brand new wardrobes. The items would last maybe 3 washes if we were lucky, and eventually, that frustration with constantly replacing clothing began to wear on me. When I moved into my first solo apartment after school and quickly found the only way I could afford to furnish my home was by thrifting, that naturally expanded to finding great deals on modern and vintage clothing, and a full 180 was completed. The funny part is we grew up only shopping at second-hand stores for our back to school clothing, and I desperately wanted to the modern, brand name clothing like my peers. So that 180 was years in the making!

“The items would last maybe 3 washes if we were lucky, and eventually, that frustration with constantly replacing clothing began to wear on me.”

What types of items or brands do you carry at your shop? How do you decide what to bring in? 

We focus on classic vintage attire and accessories that fit into modern wardrobes with ease, with a serious emphasis on natural textiles that feel good against the skin. For our modern accessories and apothecary items, we focus on female-led companies that have sustainable manufacturing or sourcing as one of their core values. From Machete who uses cellulose acetate [a highly renewable material] in their designs to my former studio mate Kelly of Verdant Matter who makes our refillable candles, to even my jewelry which as I mentioned includes deadstock vintage and recycled materials in the final pieces.

Our other main focus is accessible price points. I want people to make a conscious decision when they are making a purchase, but I don't want them to feel our items are beyond their economic reach. I adore so many contemporary designers and fully understand why their price points are much higher than imported merchandise, but I want to democratize sustainable clothing to ensure everyone can afford high quality, long-lasting items.

“I want people to make a conscious decision when they are making a purchase, but I don’t want them to feel our items are beyond their economic reach. ”

How do you use your brand and store to talk about sustainability and values? Does this carry into your shop or other parts of your life?

 We follow a 'positive reinforcement' mindset for discussing sustainability in our shop and online, meaning we focus on the many benefits of shopping with a greener approach. From supporting the awesome locally-owned shop in your neighborhood so it can stick around, to getting to meet the artists whose lives are literally enriched by your purchase, to owning items that are made with quality materials and excellent craftsmanship so they last for years in your closet, these are all conscious, sustainable consumer choices that better the environment, BUT ALSO the individual's life and mindset.

It becomes an awesome cycle of positive reinforcement that encourages the consumer to continue on the path [and even bring others along too!], versus us taking the stance of guilt and pressure to shop more sustainably.

If you could pick one thing you wish more people were more aware of when it comes to the issues in the fashion industry, what would you want to talk more about?

I wish more people knew just how many items are thrown away or shipped off to a country that doesn't need them from donation and thrift shops. This is not to place the blame on the thrifts, the fault rests completely on us as consumers who start the cycle with purchasing items that have a short shelf life in their closet. We think we are doing a good deed by giving all our unwanted items to these charity or thrift shops, and for about 20% of the items we are. But the rest they either can't manage because of the amount, or the items aren't of good enough quality to resell.

That's why my slogan, mantra, ethos is conscious consumerism. Be aware of what you are buying, where you're buying it from and how long it will actually last you. 

We also encourage not buying anything first and foremost which seems contrary since we only exist with money spent at our shop, but we also host workshops about mending your existing clothes, dyeing any that have stains, swapping with other folks for a 'new' item and only then looking elsewhere for fresh fashion for your wardrobe [obviously we suggest vintage first ;) ].

Threaded was built on the idea that Midwest is more than a flyover when it comes to a conscious approach to fashion. There are so many creators, artists, designers, and visionaries right here doing incredible work and living their values. What do you wish more people knew about the Midwest and what do you love most about living and working here in Chicago? 

That just because we aren't seen as international fashion hubs like New York or LA, doesn't mean that we don't have a fire style community here! The beauty of the Midwest is that we are able to mix function and fashion in a unique way not seen anywhere else. There's an incredible streetwear scene here in addition to some awesome denim companies and a diverse vintage community as well. Also, because the cost of living is lower than the coastal fashion cities, you have a better support system within the creative world here.

More artists are interested in collaborating or encouraging each other versus seeing everyone as competition. It creates a more inspiring and enriching experience overall that I think is, unfortunately, lacking in the more densely populated areas.

“The beauty of the Midwest is that we are able to mix function and fashion in a unique way not seen anywhere else”

Any words of wisdom to all the creatives out there hoping to start a sustainable brand or business?

Get a mentor, do your research on materials and production costs, and most of all: have absolute passion for what you're doing because that will come through in everything you do. At this stage in the sustainable movement, we are still educating folks on the true costs of fast fashion, but also on the exact why and how being a more conscious consumer is ultimately the best bet for your bank account AND the environment. When they make a greener shopping choice, creating a positive experience around the purchase itself just further cements the cycle of conscious consumer. They leave feeling fulfilled but also proud to be a part of such an inspiring movement.

What are your thoughts on how we as individuals can shift the industry to one we can all be proud to be a part of? How can we support you and your work? 

SHOP.SMALL. I know folks hear this day in and out, but it is the absolute truth. Do you love that small business in your area? Get your birthday and holiday gifts there. Send friends and family to them. Share their shop or company on your social media. Same goes for brands that maybe aren't local, but you love their products and dedication to sustainability. Tell everyone!

Word of mouth is the best advertising because it's coming from a trusted source: someone in their life that they obviously appreciate since the relationship exists in the first place. We appreciate every single person who comes into our shop whether they purchase an item, come in to say hi regularly and bring friends, or post a photo of the store on their Instagram. Spread the word, shop when you can, those acts done consistently can make a world of difference for the brands you love!

You can follow the jewelry design work of Merl at @clydesrebirth and explore her shop + studio at @theshudio. If you are in Chicago, get immersed in the sustainable fashion community by signing up for workshops and events hosted by The Shudio!